MT6 Slug


Kit bashed from Aristo-Craft's SD45


CR Specifics

Slow Progress

Kadee Coupler Upgrade

JM Enterprize Couplers

Frame Beams


CR Specifics


0 horse power, no motor.


Built from Alco RSD12 & 15s.


Originally had Alco trimount trucks but were replaced with Flexicoil trucks which match Aristocraft's SD45 trucks.


And the chopping begins...

Well, here's the start of it!


Shortened frame:

This is a shortened SD45 frame and center beam to accommodate the 53'-8" length of the MT6.


Stair well mods:

Here's the start of modifying the stairwells to resemble the RSD-12.


Split the Beam:

I had to cut the beam in half and bolt it back through the plastic frame so that that batteries could be supported between the two halves.



Here they are.  Twelve batteries total (notice the two where the fuel tank will be).  This is the only set up I could get to work to keep standard with 18v @ 4.5AmpHr.


Test Roof:

I curved some styrene and glued them together for the roof.


Shell Mockup:

Here's the shell partially complete with drawings of future parts on it.


Shell Mockup:

Different angle of the shell closer up.


Shell Mockup:

Added on a few more details to the shell.  Still many left!


Shell Mockup:

From a different side.


Shell Mockup:

Added headlights and built fuel tank and air cylinders.



Well I tried to get it done for the York PA show, but didn't make it.  Here it is painted up.  Need to make some decals before dull coating the shell.  The hand rails are painted and ready to be installed, after the stanchions are finished up.



JM Enterprize Couplers

These are 1/32 scale working metal couplers and are absolutely the best I've seen!  However, they only couple with Kadee #1-scale couplers (as far as I know).  They are distributed by

Frame Post:

I cut the original mounting post down to the level the side tabs come out, then built it up a little thicker with styrene to  create a better platform.

Coupler Box:

Since I already mounted all Kadee couplers on my engines and the coupler pockets that come with the JM couplers aren't suited very well for loco mounting (although they are very nice), I decided to clean out the inside of the Kadee coupler box and use them for mounting.

Centering Springs:

I drilled a hole through the middle of the coupler shaft and tapped in two small screws to hold the centering springs in place, which were chopped up for the original Kadee mounts.

Detail Shot:

Here's a close up of the couplers awesome appearance.



Frame Beams

Since the dash 9's are coming soon (yeah, yeah, CR never had any dash 9's, but they'll make a great later version dash 8 with some chopping :), it was pointed out that the overall truck appearance and stance of the loco isn't up to par.  This seems to be mainly credited to the lack of detail piping and frame I-beams that support the loco.  I feel these were left out because there simply isn't enough room for them and for the motor block assembly to rotate under tight radiuses (radii?).  So, I gave it a go on this MT-6 and SD45s and think it will work out nicely.  I used a method of mounting the motor brick with four bolts and trimming the brick mounting piece for turning clearance.  Please note that this alteration will slightly limit the turning radius of the loco without further modifications.

Mounting Holes:

Here's a nice blurry pic (sorry) of where approximately the mounting holes will go.  I drilled these downward, but found it much easier to drill from the bottom up to accurately locate where the nut will be mounted from within the brick.  These particular holes go through the wheel pickup section of the circuit board, but I don't care as I'm not using them.  Keep them as far out as possible for motor clearance!!

Nut Mod:

The nut needs to be trimmed down flat on one side so that it can be placed as close to the inner brick wall as possible and the other side needs to be slanted to allow for clearance of the motor.

Chop Up the Mount:

Now the mount can be altered.  The angles cut here allow it to turn fully with out hitting the beam.  The four parts on the right were cut off the sides of the mounting block that will be used to re-attach the side frames to the brick.

Slap it Together:

The assembly on the left is the original, while the one on the right is the modified one.  The screw heads were slightly counter sunk and can be filed to allow for more clearance.

Add the I-Beam:

I used a 3/8th inch Plastruct ABS I-beam, glued on with Plastruct Plastic Weld.

Rotation Limitation Top:

Here's a top view of the section that limits the rotation of the trucks.  The truck mount assembly clears the beam, but that actual corner of the brick hits the I-beam as seen below.  I don't plan on running these locos on this tight of a turn (what radius can it handle, not sure yet), so I feel it will be OK to leave.  I will however alter this area by adding extra breakers to stop the rotation earlier as to not allow the brick to hit the I-beam and possibly brake it off.

Rotation Limitation Side:

Here's a side view of the issue.  I trimmed the inside of the beam to allow a little more clearance.  If you need the absolute max rotation, I think you could safely cut away the corner of the brick since this plastic is really thick.  Underneath this corner is the gear assembly box so that is as far as you can go in.  Some trusty (and thin) black duct tape could be placed over the corner to prevent any dirt from getting in.  Imagine if the original mount was there, the truck wouldn't turn at all!

Final Effect:

Here's the view of the beam.